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when to put light on germinated seeds

When to Place Germinated Seeds under Light?

BarnyW
Member

After a very successful first grow I now feel like a newbie. Maybe I was just lucky with my first grow and no matter what I did everything went right. Now everything I do seems to be wrong. I do not have problems germinating seeds, but the seeds do not do well after that. There is so much misinformation out there on the Web that it’s ridiculous.
I see where some sites say to place newly germinated seeds under fluorescent lights and some sites say wait for the first true set of leaves. Some sites say root up and some say root down. I have been following the advice of placing the germinated seeds under light with root up, but that has not been working too well.
Here is my process.
1- Germinate with the paper towel method in a dark warm place using purified drinking water.
2- Place germinated seeds in plastic cups with white tap root facing up and using FF Light Warrior soil once I see the white root emerge from the germinated seed. Seed is buried about a half in deep into the soil. Water is bottled drinking water. Soil is pre soaked before seed is placed in soil.
3- Cover the cups with saran wrap and place back in dark warm place until the seedling emerges from the soil.
At this point I have been placing under fluorescent lighting, but the seedling usually quits growing at this point.

Should I be waiting for the first true set of leaves before placing under light?
Tap root up or down?
What do you guys do?

TichySmokeSmoke
Well-Known Member

This is what i like to do which seems to work at 100 percent for me.
1- Germ by letting seeds soak in water for 12-24 hours to let the outer layer get soak
2- Place onto plate lightly dampen it and place in dark but warm place. (Closets next to grow room work great)
3- Inspect seeds (24-72 hours usally) when i see poped enough to attack root to Medium about half way down the hole (hardest part even with tweezers)
4- place under 4000 lumes
5- Keep Soil/medium Cover maybe with cutt plastic bottle and surround (if you have medium) medium with hydroballs to keep moist so you dont have to water as much.( if its soil just put plastic around were you planted seed and water ontop of plastic every 24 hours)
6- In 24-72 hours you should see seed attach to wall and start roots down
7- Remove Plastic and Hydro balls (Looks like itle be hard if your using a medium but you wont hurt your plant)
8- and keep at 4000 Lumes.

Now im no pro but this is my method

fabfun
New Member
MrDank007
Well-Known Member

I try to keep it simple. I get the lights going on the timer while the seeds are in the paper towel. I generally soak the seeds in water for a couple hours before putting them in a wet paper towel and in a dark place. I check on them before and after work. Generally, they pop in about 3 days.

Once the beans pop and have a small tail (I don’t like them too long as I have broken the root tap before handling), I put them about 1/4-1/2 in down in the soil of their final pot. I then throw the pots in the box with the light cycle already going. I mist the top of the soil with water a couple of times a day to keep it moist. Nothing to it.

BarnyW
Member
Nullis
Moderator

I don’t know where the root up thing comes from; ditched the ‘paper towel’ stuff after my first grow anyways. Instead it is directly into pre-moistened soil-less medium (Light Warrior or Sunshine #4 + EWC), seed in sideways or pointed end down. Then watered with a liquid seaweed solution and placed under fluorescent lighting from the very start.

The only thing that seems amiss about what you described to me other than the ‘root up’ thing is the saran wrap. You don’t really need to cover seedlings, high humidity is a potentially bad thing where they are concerned because the seed\seedling is prone to fungal infection. As long as the medium stays moist they should be good at typical relative humidity. The types fungus you want to avoid prefer warm, wet conditions.

Fluorescent lighting several inches away is just fine, even before the seeds have actually surfaced (the light will help warm up the medium). Once I see my seedlings have broken through the soil I place them within just a few inches of the light. The less light they get now the more they are going to stretch, and stretch is what I have been trying to avoid in particular as of late.

fabfun
New Member

Marijuana Seeds Positioning in Soil

Marijuana seeds should be placed with the POINTED END UP into a prepared cannabis seeds germination bed or just good soil at a depth of 1/2 to 3/4 inch. The embryo tap root emerges from the pointed (stylar) end and the natural method of growth is for this root to make a turn and grow downward (see the illustration) This bend formed by the downward curve of the taproot is what emerges from the soil and the friction of dragging the cannabis seeds upward helps the new plant to loosen and cast off the seed case when it breaks through the surface. If the cannabis seeds are placed with the pointed end down, the embryo will be required to expend a great deal of its stored energy for twisting and turning to position the tap root when it realizes that it is heading the wrong way (see illustration of germinating marijuana seeds) The seedling will need this energy to exert the forces required to later lift its head (now enclosed by the two halves of the seed case) above the soil, cast off the seed case and then spread its two embryo leaves and begin the life-giving photosynthetic process. This is a critical stage in growth and carelessness in placing the marijuana seeds will exhaust even the most hearty seedling and result in a slow start and a feeble plant in later life. Cannabis seeds should be placed in a small hole at a depth of 1/2 to 3/4 inch. An excellent medium for germination is a mixture of rich humus and fine sand, such as the type used for aquariums. The soil needs a ph of 7.5 to 8.0 and should not be so moist that it sticks to your fingers. If the medium is too moist, the seeds will rot and ferment before they can sprout. A simple test for moisture is to stick a pencil into the soil and if soil adheres to it when removed, then it is too moist. Sort of like when you test a cake by sticking a straw into it to see if it is baked through to the middle. The ideal is not too moist, and not too dry – and be sure that the soil is well-drained. Research has shown that a soil temperature that is at, or slightly above, the air temperature promotes the best survival rates and growth.
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I don’t know where the root up thing comes from; ditched the ‘paper towel’ stuff after my first grow anyways. Instead it is directly into pre-moistened soil-less medium (Light Warrior or Sunshine #4 + EWC), seed in sideways or pointed end down. Then watered with a liquid seaweed solution and placed under fluorescent lighting from the very start.

The only thing that seems amiss about what you described to me other than the ‘root up’ thing is the saran wrap. You don’t really need to cover seedlings, high humidity is a potentially bad thing where they are concerned because the seed\seedling is prone to fungal infection. As long as the medium stays moist they should be good at typical relative humidity. The types fungus you want to avoid prefer warm, wet conditions.

Fluorescent lighting several inches away is just fine, even before the seeds have actually surfaced (the light will help warm up the medium). Once I see my seedlings have broken through the soil I place them within just a few inches of the light. The less light they get now the more they are going to stretch, and stretch is what I have been trying to avoid in particular as of late.

After a very successful first grow I now feel like a newbie. Maybe I was just lucky with my first grow and no matter what I did everything went right. Now…